Vietnamese roots and a deep love for food usually go hand in hand. Unsurprisingly, Kieu Phan ticks both boxes. “Vietnamese cuisine has that perfect combination of salty, sweet and sour flavors. Add a touch of spice. And top it all off with a perfect mixture of fragrant herbs…” she enthuses about the cuisine she’s admittedly “fiercely proud of.”
Đọc bài viết bằng Tiếng Việt
Added to that, she’s got a restless entrepreneurial energy. Right now, with her The Taste of Vietnam Group, she’s bringing the food scene in Hoi An to a whole new level while opening her first overseas projects in Australia.
There’s her eponymously titled Madam Kieu, which Kieu Phan calls the jewel in her group’s crown, and nearby Ngon, which opens next month.
Kieu Phan Is Taking Vietnamese Cuisine Overseas
At the same time, she’s setting her sights on taking Vietnamese cuisine overseas, first to Melbourne with her Hoiana project. “And after that we’ll open a restaurant in Sydney,” Kieu quickly adds, partly, it feels, to remind herself of her hectic schedule.
But if all that elevated Vietnamese cuisine and culture feels too refined, don’t worry. Kieu also owns the Shamrock Irish Pub Hoi An just a few doors down from Madam Kieu – the proud purveyors of Hoi An’s longest happy hour from 10am – 6pm every day. “Add to that Shamrock Irish Pub Danang too – and that brings us to four restaurants and two bars in Vietnam so far,” she nods.
Shamrock Irish Bar Hoi An is the perfect spot to continue on for some rowdy nights and raised glasses of Guinness (Kieu’s Shamrock was the first place in Vietnam to serve it on draft), while soaking in the picturesque view of the old town across the river as the nighty crowd dissipates, the last lanterns set on the river fade to black, and the tourists boats moor to end another day.
Madam Kieu Is More Than A Restaurant
It’s easy to see Madam Kieu as more than a restaurant. The place is really a testament to Kieu Phan’s tenacious spirit because way before the magazine profiles and the public plaudits Kieu Phan had to overcome a life-changing childhood illness.
“I was diagnosed with cancer when I was 12 years old,” she remembers, her usual warm smile disappearing for a moment. “And, right then, I promised to myself that I’d do something in this life if I made it through that challenging time. And I did get a second chance and I intend to make the most of it.”
And she has. Although her steamroller of a personal journey doesn’t stop in Sydney. “My ultimate aspiration is to establish a children’s hospital,” she explains, the smile returning to her face.
Back To The Beaches. Barbeques. Cosmopolitan living. And carefree attitudes.
Opening two restaurants in the next 12 months in Australia feels wildly ambitious. But she’s no stranger to the market, Kieu tells us. “I first traveled to Australia on vacation. That was almost 20 years ago. Beaches. Barbeques. Cosmopolitan living. And a carefree attitude,” she sighs.
She fell in love with the lifestyle but missed her home comforts – by which we assume she’s referring to food. “Exactly,” she laughs. “There was an absence of any kind of Vietnamese restaurants or Vietnamese food in the supermarkets. There were lots of Chinese concepts and cuisine. But Vietnamese? Zero.”
Addressing The Imbalance
However, absence gives way to opportunity. “Even all these years later I still feel the imbalance hasn’t been addressed. That’s why I’m bringing the best of Vietnamese hospitality and flavors to Australia and showcasing them in the form of an upscale restaurant.”
Although the opportunity doesn’t intimidate her, Kieu still has the wide-eyed awe for Australia – especially its food scene – as she did when she first arrived almost 20 years ago. “Some of my favorite bars and restaurants in the world are there,” she nods approvingly, before listing a few off. “Places like Gimlet, Etta, Loch & Key and Au de Vie inspire me with every single bite and sip.”
From the end of November, she hopes Hoiana Melbourne will be doing the same for her guests.
“More to our food than just pho and banh mi”
“It’s surprising how little good Vietnamese cuisine there is. A lot of Vietnamese have settled there. Our cuisine really should be elevated to rival the Thai, Chinese or Japanese concepts that already exist there,” she muses.
“I want Vietnamese cuisine to punch its weight in Australia. And I want to show there is more to our food than just pho and banh mi at under $20 dollars a dish.”
Hoiana Melbourne’s soon-to-be-named executive chef, who will work with Head Chef Dylan McCormack, already has a formidable reputation for elevating Vietnamese cuisine to fine dining level, “but let’s save that for another chat” she says mischievously, moving quickly on.
Introducing Faifo Craft Beer
There is, after all, lots more to talk about like Kieu Phan’s other plans for her restless Taste of Vietnam Group. Next, they’re also expanding beyond restaurants. “Into craft beer,” she confirms about her fledgling Faifo Craft Beer brand.
“The name ‘Faifo’ comes from the Chinese pronunciation of Hoi An. The town and its port became a major trading hub attracting merchants from different parts of Asia, including China in the 16th and 17th centuries,” she explains helpfully.
Which might lead you to assume she’s a local. “Actually, I’m from Cam Lâm in Khánh Hòa,” she corrects us. “I only first came to Hoi An in 2015 after spending many years in Saigon.” But she set about learning the local customs and culture with her typical open-mindedness and insatiable curiosity.
Tailored Hospitality
Pragmatically, that also included “finding out where to source the best and freshest ingredients from local suppliers and farmers.”
“This approach enabled us to tailor the Madam Kieu concept to carefully fit its environment. Equally, as we prepare to open Hoiana in Melbourne, we’ll be taking a similarly diligent approach to ensure that we adapt our concept correctly for local tastes,” Kieu continues.
She’s definitely a convert to Quang Nam Province cuisine, she admits. “I don’t want to play favorites – I love all of the flavors from north to south Vietnam. But if I had to choose? Then it would be the cuisine of Central Vietnam.”
“The dishes have that perfect balance. And they work really well with the fresh vegetables and herbs grown in our fields – our goi cuon spring with pork and fresh herbs wrapped in a local rice paper that’s lighter and thinner than usual. Or there’s cau lau, essentially a very local and unique rendition of rice noodles, grilled pork, bean sprouts, pork crackling and herbs served in a tasty broth.”
“Who says it can’t be done?”
We wonder, then, as Hoi An’s cuisine, even at street level is so satisfying – like tucking into a bowl of cau lau a stone’s throw from the town’s historic Japanese bridge – why try to elevate the experience, as Kieu Phan is doing at Madam Kieu, and will do in Australia.
“I hear you. As social media has exploded over the last 10 years we’ve seen a constant stream of YouTubers raising the profile of our ancient town of Hoi An, its culture and its cuisine. So, we know that when tourists arrive, they probably have an idea about what they’ll experience. We must offer all of these traditional, delicious Hoi An dishes for our guests,” she accepts.
But recently, Iron Chef David Thai and Esta’s Francis Thuan have both cooked there, and 2023 TopChef Vietnam champion Truc Dinh will cook there soon. Plus, Madam Kieu will host the TopChef Vietnam show next year. And she hints that there’ll be a MICHELIN-star chef from Bangkok visiting soon as well without giving away too many details.
“Who wrote the rule that guests in Hoi An can’t also have a relaxing, comfortable and highly enjoyable visit while enjoying an elevated experience of local cuisine? Who says it can’t be done?” challenges the indomitable Kieu Phan.
With Hoiana poised for its grand opening, and Ngon too, and Madam Kieu, the jewel in her crown constantly evolving, and her upcoming restaurant debut in Sydney, and the imminent launch of her craft beer brand, who would dare to doubt her?
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