When Michael Luong sets down a plate at DẠ夜 Dining it’s not just another dish being served — it’s the entrance of a supporting character in an ongoing theatrical production. But we’re not just here to talk about food this time. We want to get the Californian-born chef’s guide to Ho Chi Minh City — flickering 26 floors below. It’s the place he now calls home.
“You sure we can’t talk about the menu,” Michael pleads. We should allow him a moment or two’s hyperbole about the dishes he and Chef Sơn are serving up nightly. Perched atop CENTEC Tower, DẠ夜 Dining (pronounced “ya”) and its sister venue HỢP合 (pronounced “hop”) have rapidly established themselves as the boldest marriage of culinary artistry and performance in a city increasingly defined by experiential dining.
And we’re standing in the blue-soaked corridor that leads to the dining room. Bathed in shadows, the California-born sous chef is a calm presence ahead of the choreographed chaos that will come later, and that defines one of Saigon’s most ambitious dining concepts.
Because DẠ夜 Dining draws enigmatic inspiration from Wong Kar-wai’s “In the Mood for Love,” a cinematic touchpoint that Michael references repeatedly as we talk. “It’s been very influential to DẠ夜 Dining,” he says, gesturing toward the moody lighting that bathes diners in a nostalgic glow. “The whole experience is designed to feel like you’ve stepped into a film.” And it does.
California Dreaming in Saigon
Michael’s path to becoming sous chef at one of Saigon’s most talked-about venues wasn’t exactly straightforward. Born and raised in California, he brings a West Coast sensibility to the kitchen. “The hustle and bustle here reminds me of Los Angeles,” Michael shrugs when asked about the comparisons with his adopted city. “Busy streets. Always. Each district has its own unique vibe. Traversing them feels like traveling to a different city. Thao Dien, especially, reminds me most of Southern California which is where I’m from.”
This sense of familiarity amid the foreign has helped ground him while contributing to a concept that defies easy categorization — neither fully Vietnamese nor Chinese, neither completely traditional nor modern.
DẠ夜 Dining’s Sensory Symphony
When we ask Michael to describe DẠ夜 Dining to someone who hasn’t visited yet, he becomes pointed: “Looks: elegant. Tastes: evocative. Sounds: intriguing. Feels: welcoming!” he laughs, marveling at his own succinctness.
This multi-sensory approach defines both his culinary philosophy and the restaurant’s ethos. In a space where nightly performances provide momentary distraction from the compelling modern-Chinese cuisine, Michael’s kitchen must produce dishes that don’t just taste exceptional — they must hold their own as part of a larger theatrical experience.
“By using food as a medium during live performances it enhances the experience by engaging multiple senses,” he explains. “This makes the performance more immersive, as the guests don’t just watch or listen, their taste and smell are also triggered curating a distinct dining experience.”
It’s a delicate balance, creating plates that complement the performances without being overshadowed or overshadowing them. Yet occasionally, the kitchen creates something so compelling that it becomes the main attraction.
“DẠ夜 Dining Roast Duck,” Michael answers immediately when asked which dish consistently makes diners forget there’s even a performance happening. “With no intention of having that in mind,” he adds with a hint of pride. Enough. We’re here to talk about the city, we remind him.
Michael Luong’s Saigon Guide
Between discussions of technique and theater, glimpses of Michael’s life outside the kitchen emerge. Having transposed his California upbringing to Saigon, he’s developed favorite haunts that provide comfort when he’s not orchestrating culinary performances at DẠ夜 Dining.
Where should we go for street food in Ho Chi Minh City?
Bột Chiên Nguyễn Kim. Growing up my mom would make bột chiên for the family often. This spot hits close to home for me.
Where are the best classic cocktails? And where are the most creative?
Vintage Culture in D1 for classic cocktails. The Pi in D1 for some fun, creative drinks.
Where would you go for a date?
Con Voi in Thao Dien for a very relaxed cocktail bar.
And for a special occasion – say your birthday?
Any quán nhậu in Saigon that can accommodate larger parties. I often find myself at Hung 33.
Where do you take chef or foodie guests from out of town?
Nhà Hàng Ngon for Vietnamese food in a more comfortable setting. They have a wide variety of dishes from across the country.
And to relieve a hangover?
Ma Oi for Bun Bo Hue, Matchandeul for KBBQ, and Chuck’s Burgers is my go-to for when I crave In-n-Out.
And for a good coffee?
NGHỆ CAFÉ, where the coffee is good, and the staff are very welcoming and vibey. Next door is a xôi gà spot that I also recommend!
Which tourist destination is worth the visit?
The view at Cầu Ba Son is worth a visit at night. Quite peaceful and breezy.
And where do you go to escape the chaos of Saigon?
Thao Dien is calmer and more westernized so I go there if I ever feel homesick.
Finally, can you tell us a secret about the city?
Not so much of a secret but something I’ve learned was that the streets here are named after historical events or notable figures – which I’m still learning about!
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