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Breaking Boundaries: Inside Thierry Drapeau’s Signature Bangkok

David Kaye by David Kaye
15 November, 2024
in Eat and Drink
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While most fine dining restaurants build walls between kitchen and guest, at Signature, his newly MICHELIN-star minted restaurant, Thierry Drapeau pulls them down. In an art deco space eleven floors above Bangkok’s bustling streets, the Loire Valley native has created a culinary playground where jazz meets gastronomy, shy cooks become performers, and the service ends with a sanctioned act of dessert destruction.

Step out of the elevator on the 11th floor of VIE Hotel Bangkok, and you’re immediately transported into Thierry Drapeau’s carefully orchestrated world of culinary theater. Jazz floats through the air as you sink into plush sofas, while sommelier Sibnath Das glides over with glasses of Billecart-Salmon champagne. But this is merely the prelude to what’s about to unfold.

Thierry Drapeau’s Signature Bangkok Curtain Call

The dining room at Signature Bangkok demolishes the traditional barrier between kitchen and guest. A dramatic curtain runs along one wall, and when it parts – preceded by a sharp knocking sound – Drapeau and his team appear, beckoning diners into their domain after a curt bow. It’s a carefully choreographed moment that sets the tone for the evening ahead.

The kitchen itself is part culinary workspace, part high-end market. Display cabinets showcase pristine mushrooms, peppers, and courgettes alongside wheels of cheese from Les Frères Marchand. This transparency isn’t just for show – it’s Drapeau’s statement about the connection between chef, ingredient, and diner.

Thierry Drapeau at work in Signature Restaurant Bangkok’s open walk-in kitchen.

“Food is something deeply emotional that invites connection.”

“We have the opportunity to connect and share experiences with our guests,” Drapeau explains, his passion evident despite his halting English. “Food is something deeply emotional that invites connection. We love showcasing our products, explaining their origins, and highlighting the incredible suppliers we collaborate with.”

Drapeau’s journey to Bangkok is rooted in the Loire Valley, where Sunday family meals were his first exposure to the transformative power of cooking. His ‘cuisine of the soil’ philosophy earned him two Michelin stars at Les Chabettoir in Saint-Sulpice-le-Verdon, but at Signature Bangkok, he’s pushing beyond traditional French boundaries.

The chef’s approach to flowers exemplifies this evolution. Rather than mere garnishes, they’re integral flavor components, each carefully selected for its unique contribution to a dish. And his use of butter is surprisingly restrained for a French chef – instead, he coaxes flavor from ingredients through technique and understanding. The menu seamlessly weaves together Normandy scallops and local Thai produce, while the kitchen team tends their own herb and flower garden.

The menu seamlessly weaves together Normandie scallops and local Thai produce, while the kitchen team tends their own herb and flower garden.

Stepping Into The Spotlight At Signature Bangkok

Perhaps most revolutionary is how Drapeau has transformed his typically introverted kitchen team into performers who regularly step into the dining room spotlight. “They’re all really passionate,” he says with evident pride. “Presenting a dish allows them to convey that love of what they do directly to the guests. Plus, they can get some of the recognition they deserve directly.”

The tasting menus are refreshingly focused – either five or eight courses, updated every few months. “Eighty percent of our guests take the eight-course option,” Drapeau notes with quiet satisfaction. Alongside the food, Das orchestrates an unconventional wine journey, featuring everything from biodynamic wines, to rare sake and magnums from France’s Jura region, each pour accompanied by its own passionate origin story.

Amidst all this innovation at Signature Restaurant Bankok, Drapeau hasn’t abandoned the classics.

Yet amidst all this innovation, Drapeau hasn’t abandoned the classics. He delights in preparing tableside crêpes suzette, (next, he says, will be a Baba au Rhum). “They’re dear to my heart,” he admits. “Truly, they’re the foundation of my cooking, and a signature French touch.”

The meal’s finale perfectly encapsulates Signature Bangkok’s spirit: guests are presented with a white glove and a chocolate egg, which they’re encouraged to smash onto the table. It’s theatrical, unexpected, and somehow perfectly aligned with Drapeau’s vision of fine dining reimagined.

A theatrical take on fine dining where the team are all performers.

Not Just A Meal But An Immersive Experience

If Drapeau were to write a play about his culinary journey, he says it would chronicle his travels through France’s provinces and the lessons that fueled his creativity. But in reality, he’s already directing that story nightly at Signature Bangkok, where every service is a new performance, every dish a carefully considered scene, and every guest becomes part of the narrative.

Thierry Drapeau at Signature Bangkok.

What emerges is not just a meal but an immersive experience where the boundaries between kitchen and dining room, chef and guest, tradition and innovation dissolve into something entirely new. In Bangkok’s crowded fine dining scene, Signature Bangkok stands apart not just for its food, but for Drapeau’s audacious reimagining of what a restaurant can be.

 

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