Vietnam’s embrace of wine culture sees homegrown sommeliers becoming increasingly savvy. There are courses – like the Court of Master Sommeliers Vietnam (CMS) certifications – providing budding sommeliers with access to international-standard qualifications. And there are grapes grown in-region producing great bottles, giving lots to talk about and taste.
In Vietnam’s rapidly evolving culinary landscape, where beer, rice wines, and spirits have traditionally dominated, a subtle revolution is taking place. Wine consumption is growing steadily, creating a golden opportunity for those with the passion and expertise to guide diners through the complex world of vintages, terroirs, and perfect pairings.
The timing makes sense. According to Knight Frank’s 2024 Luxury Market report, Vietnam ranks among Asia’s top three fastest-growing countries for millionaires, with an expected 85% increase in individuals owning assets worth $1 million or more over the next five years. This wealthy clientele increasingly demands sophisticated dining experiences where wine is not merely a beverage but an extension of lifestyle.
Enter The Professional Sommelier In Vietnam
Enter the professional sommelier – part scientist, part storyteller, and complete artist of the wine world. Helping to train the next generation, Vietnam is preparing to host its Court of Master Sommeliers (CMS) certification course in Ho Chi Minh City this July.
Started in 1969, since then only 279 professionals in the world have ascended to the highest rank of Master Sommelier. And three of them will train candidates in the only CMS course in Ho Chi Minh City, hosted by Red Apron Wine School. So, to celebrate, we brought together three influential voices in Vietnam’s wine scene.
Tu Tran Thanh, Head Sommelier at Seroja Singapore and Vietnam Best Sommelier 2020, recently earned the highest passing grade in the 2024 CMS course at Red Apron Wine School. His international experience bridges Vietnamese and Singaporean wine cultures, bringing a cross-border perspective to Southeast Asian wine appreciation.
Duc Thanh is sommelier at the ageless Park Hyatt Saigon, where he meticulously curates wine experiences for an international clientele of discerning travelers and local connoisseurs. His position at one of Vietnam’s most luxurious hotels puts him at the forefront of the country’s high-end wine service.
Nguyen Khac Huy, Business Development Manager and Sommelier at Red Apron Fine Wines & Spirits, who holds the distinction of Best Sommelier in French Wine by Sopexa 2017 and was First Runner-up in the 2024 AMV Wine Competition judged by Master of Wine Jeannie Cho Lee. With over 12 years in the industry, Huy’s credentials place him among Vietnam’s most accomplished wine professionals.
These three represent the vanguard of Vietnam’s wine renaissance, each bringing unique perspectives and experiences to our conversation about the future of wine culture in Southeast Asia.
What makes wine so fascinating to you personally?
Tu: Wine has a deep history and encapsulates various cultures, each differing in type. Wine is also connected to various fields like biology, geography, history, and chemistry, which makes it fascinating.
Duc: To me, wine is the only beverage that can deliver tons of flavors, complexity, elegance and finesse, all at once. Furthermore, the story of the wineries, the history of the regions, together with the culinary aspect that it fits alongside, are all very exciting to me and I enjoy learning about wine a lot.
Huy: Wine is the only subject where geography, chemistry, art, and poetry collide — and somehow, you get to drink the homework. It fascinates me because, like people, every bottle has a story — and just when you think you know it all, another vintage surprises you.
You have three bottles of wine to help the uninitiated fall in love with it. Which do you choose and why?
Tu: Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Auslese 2001. It’s one of the oldest wineries in Germany, These Riesling grapes are sourced from a renowned vineyard in Mosel. And the wine exhibits a pleasant sweetness with balanced acidity. It’s versatile enough to appeal to every wine enthusiast.
Then I’ll choose Ca’ dei Zago Valdobbiadene Metodo Classico DOCG 2021. This wine is produced from Glera grapes. It’s one of the renowned sparkling wines from the Veneto area. Expect fizzy, pleasant fragrances. I refer to it as ‘glou glou’ wine. Easy to drink. Simple to pair.
Finally, Marc Delienne Fleurie Abbaye Road 2015, a Gamay from Beaujolais. It’s a juicy red wine, with pleasant tannin.
Duc: Sauternes, Riesling Auslese, and Côteaux du Layon. Great dessert wines have everything you expect from a great bottle of wine: concentration of fruit, complexity from the aging process, and a balanced flavor with some acidity. And everybody loves sweetness. A bit of sugar always makes people happy.
Huy: Champagne, which I describe as something of a ballerina, because nothing says ‘life is beautiful’ like the first sip of fine bubbles. Champagne lifts the spirit with its joyful foam dancing in the glass that cascades down to the bottom of your heart. It truly marks memories, and proves that sophistication can still be full of joy.
Then German Riesling. It’s bright, refreshing, with violin-string tension and just a little mischievousness. Riesling’s balance of acidity and sweetness resembles the polarities of light and darkness. Plus, elegance shows that great wine doesn’t have to be heavy or intimidating.
And finally Spanish Tempranillo (Crianza or Reserva), a soulful and effortlessly charming wine. A well-made Tempranillo carries the sun of Spain in every sip, layered with red fruits, and earthy notes, and a whisper of oak and spices. Yet it’s warm and inviting enough to make a newcomer feel instantly at home.
What does certification like the Court of Master Sommeliers Vietnam do that self-learning can never offer?
Tu: The Court of Master Sommeliers Vietnam gives the opportunity to connect with an international sommelier network. And it provides insights and mentorship from Master Sommeliers.
Duc: The greatest advantage of the CMS certification is the instant recognition it brings within the F&B industry. While self-learning remains the most important part of studying wine, holding a CMS certificate creates a strong first impression — not only with guests, but also with potential business partners and owners.
Huy: Self-learning is great, but certification is like seasoning — without it, you might still cook, but you’ll always wonder what’s missing. Certification demands discipline, critical thinking, service excellence, and blind tasting skills, and builds a community of professionals who push each other to higher standards.
Why take the journey from wine enthusiast to certified sommelier in a country where beer, rice wines and spirits have traditionally dominated?
Tu: In a region where beer and spirits reign, wine expertise is rare. Becoming a sommelier allows you to stand out, offering something unique to restaurants, bars, retailers, and consumers looking for broader beverage options.
Duc: I believe that in Vietnam, the wine industry offers more opportunity because it’s still a niche market with great potential for growth. While the beer and spirits sectors are already well-developed, dominated by large groups and filled with many talented local bartenders, pursuing a different path as a wine professional is both exciting and distinctive. It’s a chance to stand out in the F&B community. And the fact is, learning about wine is incredibly fun and there’s always something new to discover that keeps you inspired.
Huy: Wine deserves a seat at our tables, alongside our culture and cuisine. It had been my dream for more than 12 years to achieve this certification. Earning this certification gave me the tools and language to introduce wine thoughtfully, respectfully, and inspiringly to a market ready for new experiences.
Is there a risk of creating wine elitism in Vietnam through sommelier certification in markets still developing wine culture? And how can wine appreciation appeal to a new generation?
Tú: The cost, language, and accessibility of certification programs can make wine knowledge appear exclusive or only for the wealthy or elite. This can create a divide between certified professionals and everyday consumers. A formal, jargon-heavy approach to wine education may alienate new drinkers. It risks framing wine as something you must be trained to enjoy properly, rather than a product of culture and pleasure. We can and should celebrate local palates and traditions and encourage locally relevant content in wine courses, including regional food pairings.
Duc: Yes there is, especially in the Vietnam market where wine professionals are still a minority in the F&B industry. The world of wine is incredibly vast, one must always stay humble and keep learning to become better. For the next generation to truly appreciate wine culture, it’s essential that the current generation takes an active role in education — showing that wine is not just a product to sell, but a reflection of tradition, the connection between humans and nature, craftsmanship, and personal experience. I strongly believe that if young people can see their seniors genuinely in love with wine, they too will be inspired to explore and embrace its culture.
Huy: The minute wine stops being joyful and starts becoming a spelling bee, we’ve lost the plot. There’s always a risk of elitism if sommeliers forget the essence of hospitality! Our job is not to guard wine behind velvet ropes but to invite people in — to show that wine is a conversation, not a competition about bits of knowledge. To appeal to the next generation, we need to speak with an open mind with kindness.
How do Vietnamese sommeliers balance international wine knowledge with showcasing regional producers from Thailand and elsewhere in Southeast Asia? And what are your favorite new latitude wines?
Tu: Part of the role involves educating guests — especially international visitors — about the quality and uniqueness of Southeast Asian wines. Tasting menus, wine flights, and storytelling around the producers help break down skepticism and create curiosity. My favorites include Granmonte from Khao Yai, Thailand; Weightstone Vineyard Estate & Winery Taichung, Taiwan; and Coco Farm Hokkaido, Japan.
Duc: To balance the international wine knowledge, you must have a strong foundation on European wines first. The old worlds are the core of the wine culture. We must never stop reading and learning in order to catch up with other neighboring countries.
Huy: We honor the classics, but we also have a duty to champion our region’s emerging wines. A great sommelier can pour Bourgogne Blanc with one hand and Thai Syrah with the other — both with equal respect. I’m particularly excited about Granmote Syrah from Thailand’s Khao Yai. Southeast Asia isn’t just drinking wine anymore; we’re starting to produce it.
What is the most iconoclastic pairing you’ve offered or tasted recently?
Tu: ‘Ca nau mang chua’ or fish with bamboo shoot and tomato paired with orange wine produced by Grapes Republic in Yamagata, Japan, crafted from Delaware grapes.
Huy: One of my favorite childhood dishes, Hue’s royal cakes (Banh Beo, Banh Nam, Banh Loc), paired with a Riesling from the Pfalz, Germany — the richness, sweetness, umami, and savoriness of the cakes married beautifully with the freshness of the Riesling. It was absolutely delicious.
What hacks can you offer to ace the Court of Master Sommeliers Vietnam tests?
Tu: I’d recommend being equally informed about wines from the new world as the old world. Avoid concentrating too heavily on a single region or type of wine. Participant’s knowledge should include some cocktails and liqueurs, sparkling wines, and fortified wines.
Duc: There is no hack. The easiest way to ace the test is to seriously study the materials, not at once, but routinely, while enjoying the journey.
Huy: Before a wine exam, hydrate like an athlete, memorize like an actor, and taste like it’s your last glass on Earth. Study in small, consistent bursts, and share the knowledge with your classmates. Build a tasting checklist in your head. And most importantly, trust your first instinct—it’s usually right after months of preparation.
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