“Carna!” Dario Cecchini growls like a victorious gladiator. In one hand, he’s raising aloft a plate of beef like the head of a vanquished opponent. In the other is the horn he’s just finished blowing. “Carna! Carna!” he growls again for good measure.
Cecchini cuts an imposing figure, like an uncle you only see at weddings, wearing a suit cut at least 40 years ago (padded shoulders, sleeves too short — his brutish butcher’s hands poking out the end) but who’s insistent it still looks good. He sports a dandyish mustache these days, but he still sharpens his knives the same way: slashing them together in a joyously carefree manner while surveying the smiling faces in front of him.
By now, the dining room is whipped into a frenzy, and everyone shouts along with him: “To beef or not to beef, that is the question!” Although to not beef here would be like not going on the swings at the park. And like being pushed on the swings ever higher, Carna Hong Kong escalates quickly.
By now, the dining room is whipped into a frenzy, and everyone shouts along with him: “To beef or not to beef, that is the question!” Although to not beef here would be like not going on the swings at the park. And like being pushed on the swings ever higher, Carna Hong Kong escalates quickly.
A Carnivorous Journey
The culinary journey begins with an unctuous beef shin topped with shredded carrots, celery, onion, and some salsa verde, a little acidic to counter the fatty meat. Next comes a roast beef salad, followed by deep-fried meatballs rich with bone marrow and an orange sauce. The parade of beef continues with handmade Rigatoni with braised beef tripe.
Then arrives the pièce de résistance: the Bistecca Alla Fiorentina. This Tuscan-style T-bone steak is a masterpiece of simplicity and flavor, cooked to perfection over an open flame. The meal concludes with an oversized scoop of Tiramisu di Casa, a nod to Italian tradition with a Cecchini twist.
From Tuscany to Hong Kong’s Heights
Perched on the 33rd floor of The Mondrian Hong Kong, Carna offers breathtaking views of the city skyline. The restaurant’s interior blends rustic Tuscan elements with sleek, modern Hong Kong design. Exposed wooden beams contrast with floor-to-ceiling windows, while an open kitchen allows diners to witness the spectacle of meat preparation and cooking.
Dario Cecchini’s journey to Hong Kong is as remarkable as the vista from his restaurant. Bequeathed his family’s butcher shop, Antica Macelleria Cecchini, in 1976 after dropping out of veterinary studies at The University of Pisa, he became an eighth-generation butcher. What started as a small shop in the Tuscan village of Panzano has now evolved into a global culinary empire, with Carna Hong Kong as its latest jewel.
The Butcher Poet
Cecchini is often referred to as the “Butcher Poet” or the “Michelangelo of Meat.” His approach to butchery is both an art and a philosophy. He often recites Dante’s “Divine Comedy” while working, finding parallels between the poet’s journey through hell, purgatory, and paradise, and the transformation of an animal into a culinary delight.
His signature move – blowing a horn to announce the arrival of a particularly impressive cut of meat – has become legendary. It’s not just showmanship; it’s a call to attention, a moment to pause and appreciate the majesty of what’s about to be consumed.
Beyond the Prime Cuts
While Carna Hong Kong offers the expected prime cuts, Cecchini’s true passion lies in elevating the often-overlooked parts of the animal. His “Butcher’s Feast” menu features dishes like “Chianti Tuna” (not fish, but pork slow-cooked in olive oil), and “Ramerino in Culo,” a playful name for a cut from the top of the rump seasoned with rosemary.
This nose-to-tail approach isn’t just about using every cut; it’s about honoring the life of the animal by ensuring nothing goes to waste. Cecchini often says, “What God has joined together, let no man put asunder” – referring not to marriage, but to the integrity of the animal.
A Global Vision with Local Roots
While Carna Hong Kong showcases Cecchini’s Tuscan heritage, it also embraces its location. The restaurant partners with local farms to source not just vegetables and herbs, but also to explore how Cecchini’s techniques can be applied to local beef varieties.
This fusion extends to the bar menu, where classic Italian cocktails are given a Hong Kong twist. The Negroni, for instance, might be infused with local tea or spices, creating a unique East-meets-West flavor profile.
The Carna Experience
Dining at Carna is not a passive experience. Cecchini encourages diners to engage with their food, to question its origin, and to appreciate its journey from farm to table. Regular workshops and demonstrations allow guests to learn butchery techniques or the art of preparing the perfect Bistecca Alla Fiorentina.
The restaurant also hosts themed nights, such as the “Dante’s Inferno Dinner,” where each course represents one of the circles of hell from the Divine Comedy. It’s a testament to Cecchini’s belief that dining should nourish not just the body, but also the mind and soul.
The Finale
As the night winds down, Chianti spilled everywhere, the attentive Carna team sends diners off with scraps of T-bone for their dogs – a final nod to the nose-to-tail philosophy that nothing should go to waste.
Cecchini’s presence in Hong Kong represents more than just the expansion of a brand. It’s the spreading of a philosophy, a way of life that honors tradition while embracing the future. In a city known for its fast-paced lifestyle and fusion cuisines, Carna offers a moment to slow down, to appreciate the raw beauty of well-prepared meat, and to connect with the primal joy of sharing a meal.
As diners leave, satiated and a little tipsy from the Chianti, Cecchini’s voice booms one last time: “To beef or not to beef, that is the question!” But for those who’ve experienced Carna Hong Kong, the answer is clear. To beef, most definitely to beef – but to do so with respect, sustainability, and a healthy dose of theatrical flair.
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