“I got into bartending because I was curious about the lifestyle, I guess,” Loan shrugs. “And I still am.” That inquisitiveness took her to Milan last year to the Campari Red Hands global finals. Actually, it took more than just curiosity she cautions. “I had to prep like a nerd, practice like a pro, while leaving space to surprise myself,” she laughs. “Oh, and I remembered to enjoy the ride!”
On normal nights Loan can be found at Enigma Mansion, a Saigon cocktail bar that’s evidence of what happens when a phoenix rises from the cocktail bar ashes — literally.
There’s a sculpted phoenix hanging from the ceiling, which tells you everything about owner Vu Ngoc’s approach to resurrection. The original Enigma was a neon-lit space library from the near future, all reflective surfaces and lime green lights.
Campari Is Sharp And Warm At The Same Time
The Enigma Mansion is its mature second coming — exposed brick, candlelit staircases, bartenders, like Loan, in salmon waistcoats working a secret alley location that feels like stepping into a Saigon secret. “I’d describe it as cosy, with a classic atmosphere and a few abstract design touches here and there,” she says. “And the drinks range from well-executed classics to modern, experimental menus created by the team — a mix of familiarity and surprise for our guests.”
Fittingly, here, Vu Ngoc wanted “more of everything: more historical, richer in art and storytelling, more mystical and more experimental.”
Objective accomplished.
The century-old mansion backdrop doesn’t hurt either — heritage meets contemporary creativity. It’s not just a bar resurrection; it’s a complete retro reinvention that proves sometimes you have to burn everything down to build something better.
The constant rush of traffic outside — heading over the bridge to Thu Thiem or sweeping into District 1 — just makes the calm inside feel that much more deliberate.
You can smell the brickwork and the wooden beams. And, the orange peel, cinnamon bark, and herbal aromas coming from the Campari-based cocktails. “Campari’s sharp and warm at the same time,” Loan decides. “It’s not something everyone loves right away, but once you do, it sticks with you. That’s how it is for me. Now, Campari tastes like memories. Something akin to running into an old friend.”
Making The Kind Of Drinks To Linger Over
It’s best deployed, she feels, in a Mezcal Negroni. It’s a drink “familiar enough, yet just unconventional enough to spark some intrigue – retaining the classic bitter-sweet balance of a Negroni, but adding a layer of smoke and personality.”
While the Oaxacan Negroni gets fancy with yellow Chartreuse, the Mezcal Negroni keeps it simple — a quick switch of gin for mezcal and letting the agave do the talking. Equal parts mezcal, Campari, and sweet vermouth, stirred over ice with an orange twist. The result is all the bitter-sweet balance we all know and love, but now it tastes like it was made over an open fire.
Somehow mezcal’s earthy, smoky character doesn’t just complement Campari’s herbal bitterness. It’s Negroni’s wild cousin who shows up to family dinner wearing chaps and telling stories that make everyone uncomfortable and slightly awed.
“It’s best stirred till it’s just cold enough, then garnished with orange peel to brighten the smokiness,” she instructs. The bitterness, smoke, and slight sweetness create this off-beat, intriguing balance. It’s the kind of drink that makes you want to linger.”
However, pressed to keep one drink from the entire Negroni family tree, if, say, she had a magic fountain dispensing drinks on a desert island, she decides to brighten it up, plumping for a Sbagliato, after getting slightly distracted by the idea of a cocktail fountain. “That sounds like paradise already,” she laughs. “Anyway, I’d choose the Sbagliato, with Campari, sweet vermouth, and sparkling wine is lighter, refreshing, and perfect for sunset-watching,” she continues, refocusing after the momentary lapse.
Some Artful Inspirations
Some Artful Inspirations But neither the Sbagliato nor the Mezcal Negroni were the original inspiration for her cocktail last year at Campari Red Hands 2024. The drink, in fact, was inspired by a Campari poster.
Since the 1890s, the company has been turning advertising into gallery-worthy pieces, commissioning artists like Leonetto Cappiello, Marcello Dudovich, and Fortunato Depero to create posters that were less about selling drinks and more about selling dreams.
Cappiello’s 1921 ‘Spiritello’ poster — featuring a devilish sprite conjuring Campari from thin air — became so iconic it’s still referenced today. And Campari’s Art Nouveau and later Art Deco campaigns didn’t just advertise aperitivo culture; they helped create it, turning the ritual of drinking Campari into something sophisticated, European, and effortlessly chic.
The strategy worked so well that Campari posters became collectible art pieces, hanging in homes and galleries worldwide. Today, those vintage advertisements are worth more than most people’s bar tabs, proving that when you make your product look cool instead of commercial, cultural icons are exactly what you get.
“Right, the Leonetto Cappiello posters are bold, artistic, and full of energy. So, through the drink that his work inspired, I wanted to reflect the freedom and joy of creativity, and what it means to grow in this craft of cocktails.”
It’s a calculated approach in which Loan starts by researching and understanding the personality of the brand. “Campari isn’t just a flavor — it’s about passion, emotion, and individuality, shown through the Red Hands and the world of senses.”
“I pictured three overlapping circles: Campari, the brief, myself. If that makes sense? The concept was born right where those meet. And only when you understand that intersection can you tell a story that’s truly your own,” she elaborates.
It’s Someone Else’s Turn To Enjoy The Ride
Practically, success last year also meant treating Campari Red Hands like the long game it is. The event, from online submission, to the judges visiting the qualifiers bars to test the drinks, to the national and global finals stretches over months. “So, I suggest gathering all the important info and creating a clear timeline so nothing slips through the cracks,” she advises about a competition that’s far more than seven minutes on stage. “Everything you do along the way — the research, the social posts, how you engage with the community — all play a part in your final outcome.”
“And prep like a nerd, practice like a pro, allow yourself some surprises…and enjoy the ride!” Loan repeats again like a mantra to success.
