Dat Nguyen is, most likely, your favorite bartender’s favorite bartender. He’s the starched-collar kind, with meticulously rolled shirt cuffs and the precise movements of someone who’s turned mixing drinks into a martial art. Behind the bar, he combines an encyclopedic knowledge of the classics with Japanese attention to detail, all while making your drink as if it’s the only one that matters tonight.
His growing reputation stems from an almost monastic work ethic — a refreshingly quiet, concentrated presence in an industry often dominated by showmanship and self-promotion. “I’ve always preferred to express myself through my drinks,” he muses. “Measured, never meek,” is the mantra, he smiles. Now, as Beverage Director of Hop Sky bar (as well as Da Dining downstairs), he’s taking that philosophy across venues, each with its own distinctive character.
This philosophy of quiet excellence has become increasingly rare in an age of rowdy guests shifts and iPhone cameras drinking first. But Dat’s approach hearkens back to a different tradition, one where the bartender’s art lies not in spectacle but in the perfect execution of time-honored techniques. His methodology is reminiscent of the Japanese cocktail masters who spend years perfecting a single drink, finding profound depth in apparent simplicity. Okay, full disclosure: there’s some fun, kitschy striped straws and a line of draft taps he’s building his creations around this time.
The Moment
We’re getting ahead of ourselves.
In case you weren’t around yet – propping up one of the handful of bars worth frequenting, staggering out after two Martinis too many (because one is too many and two isn’t enough) – there was a bar called Monde, nestled between Au Parc and where Starbucks used to be. When it closed, its talented team scattered like beautiful shattered glass, its bartenders dispersing to run other establishments or open their own sanctuaries of mixology, each carrying forward that same unwavering philosophy – classics made with reverent care.
“That was it, that was the moment!” Dat says, surprised at the reminder. “The owner of Monde, Mr. Hasegawa, made me a Martini. I loved its elegance. And I loved that it was full of personality, somehow, too, despite its simplicity. And, I guess, that was it for me.” In Vietnam’s competitive bar landscape, he’d found his path: “I realized that being a bartender here isn’t just about mixing, but telling a story through each cocktail. I only need the satisfied look of the customer when they try the first taste.”
Substance Over Style, Craftsmanship Over Showmanship
The influence of Hasegawa-san’s mentorship remains evident in Dat’s approach today. Watch him prepare a classic cocktail, and you’ll notice the economy of movement, the precision of each pour, the careful consideration given to every element – from the temperature of the glass to the twist of citrus that crowns the creation. It’s a performance, but one that prioritizes substance over style, craftsmanship over showmanship.
Seven or eight years have passed – an eternity in Saigon’s nascent cocktail scene. With time came the confidence to challenge convention, to write new rules while pretending the old ones never existed.
Tap Cocktails And Creative Concoctions At HỢP 合
At HỢP 合, perched imperiously on the 26th floor of CENTEC Tower, Dat loosened his tie just enough to explore new territories – tap cocktails and creative concoctions that match the dizzying heights of both the view and his ambition.
The view alone at HỢP 合 is intoxicating, we point out, and the music defiantly underground – nights of percussive house and techno, and occasional appearances from legends like three-time DMC turntablist champion DJ Craze. So what drinks do you make to pair with all that, we ask?
The airy space and cityscape vistas deeply influence his menu construction he says. “Classic cocktails, mixed drinks, and especially tiki cocktails suit guests here. Then wine and spirits like gin and tequila suit our weekend music party nights perfectly.”
Party Drinks Without Overthinking It
But it’s the innovative tap cocktails that truly embody HỢP 合’s spirit – three signature creations: Pandan & Matcha, Red Wine & Jujube, and Lychee & Goji Berry. They’re his solution to maintaining quality during peak hours, when the energy rises with the tempo.
Each of these tap cocktails represents a careful balance between innovation and tradition, between the demands of a high-volume bar and the uncompromising standards of a master craftsman. The Pandan & Matcha, for instance, marries the grassy sweetness of pandan with matcha’s umami depth – a combination that speaks to both Dat’s Asian heritage and his contemporary sensibilities. The Red Wine & Jujube offering takes Sangria on a spin in its Chevy, while the Lychee & Goji Berry provides a refreshing yet sophisticated alternative to more conventional fruit-forward cocktails.
“Immediately, I also considered carbonated drinks – ones that are fresh and refreshing. You want something easy to drink, and not overly complicated in flavor,” he continues thoughtfully. “Cocktails you can dive straight into – a reflection of the music you can quickly immerse yourself in.”
We’re concerned for a moment that he may have strayed too far from his roots. “Or a Boulevardier,” he adds quickly, breaking the awkward silence. “House music – swirling beats, synthesized bass lines, piano chords, and snatched vocal samples – have that bittersweet feeling, like the bitterness and sweetness of a Boulevardier, and Bourbon adds a little spice,” he continues, really getting into his flow. “The Boulevardier is an ostentatious cocktail, but when you take a sip, each layer of flavor gradually opens up, just like the way house music leads the listener from one rhythm to another.”
Balancing Discipline And Indulgence
How about techno, we encourage him on. “An Espresso Martini,” Dat decides instantly. “Because it has a combination of strong energy from coffee and the smoothness of vodka, silky and sonorous, propulsive and poised, just like techno,” he adds.
And, he confesses finally, he’ll still be happy to make a Dry Martini should the need arise. In fact, he’d love to make one – all those memories at Monde and the places in between.
Despite the late nights and constant flow of drinks, Dat maintains a disciplined approach to his craft. “I limit my alcohol intake on my days off,” he confides, “to restore and relax my precious liver, ensuring good health throughout my career.” He pauses, then adds with a grin, “Except for events or parties – which I have every day off.”
This balance between discipline and indulgence, tradition and innovation, seems to define not just Dat’s approach to bartending but his entire philosophy of life. In a city that never seems to slow down, he’s found his own rhythm – one that allows him to maintain the exacting standards of his craft while embracing the joy and spontaneity that drew him to this profession in the first place.
Loosening The Tie A Little
Perfect, the sun going out all guns blazing, reluctantly switching the lights off on another day amid the chaos of Saigon, Espresso Martini in hand, a few friends drifting through, the promise of the night ahead as the caffeine kicks in. Maybe loosening the tie a little, just like Dat Nguyen.
Where, we wonder finally, would he sit if he came as a guest. “Over there on the sofas beside the DJ booth,” he points to the bank of sofas at the side, in plain view but out of the spotlight, unsurprisingly. “And I’d order a highball.” Measured but never meek as ever.
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