Sazeracs in Siam? It’s not a fever dream – it’s just another day at Tina’s Bangkok. There, Chef David Cleland has transplanted a chunk of the French Quarter to Bangkok. The jazz is hot, the oysters are cold, and the cocktails? Pure NOLA classics. Chef Cleland isn’t playing at fusion; he’s serving up straight-shooting contemporary Southern comfort with a side of Thai hospitality. Think: the Big Easy meets the City of Angels.
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“I’d sit at the bar. There’s something special about being right in the thick of things. And I’d go straight for two dozen grilled oysters and a Sazerac (a close cousin to the Old Fashioned that traditionally consists of rye whiskey or cognac, bitters, sugar, and absinthe) to wash it all down,” says David Cleland, executive chef of contemporary New Orleans restaurant Tina’s, when asked where he’d sit if he were a guest.
Tina’s is where you want to be too (at the bar, in the booths upstairs or anywhere) on a Sunday lunchtime – a little groggy from the night before, needing some comfort food, even if it’s someone else’s comfort food, and being sassily serenaded by Anita, who’s singing Amy Winehouse’s ‘Valerie’ eyes pointed to the ceiling.
Even aside from that coveted Sunday slot, Tina’s is a treat. The dishes – fluffy southern biscuits, Louisiana crawfish boils, rich gumbos – come out sizable enough to satisfy, yet succinct enough to share. David appears tableside just to remind you everything is housemade, right down to the condiments. Framed pictures adorn the walls – street maps of New Orleans and depictions of southern flora and fauna that are eye-catching enough for you to forget where you are, and for David to remember where he’s from.
His home city of New Orleans lives in our collective consciousness. The Crescent City has served as both backdrop and character in films spanning decades and genres. From the sultry streets of Tennessee Williams’ “A Streetcar Named Desire” to the counterculture odyssey of “Easy Rider,” and the gothic allure of “Interview with the Vampire,” New Orleans has long bewitched filmmakers and audiences alike. But the food deserves its own spotlight in the
What’s your favorite fictional portrayal of New Orleans?
My favorite fictional portrayal of New Orleans has evolved over time. When I was younger, I was drawn to Interview with a Vampire. I must have watched it countless times. There’s something about the movie’s Gothic undertones that mirrors the city’s old-world charm. But as I grew older, Tennessee Williams’ works started to resonate more with me. A Streetcar Named Desire and Cat on a Hot Tin Roof really capture the deep, dramatic soul of the South. These stories dig into the culture in ways that still feel raw and real to me.
More recently, the HBO series Treme stands out for how well it portrayed the post-Katrina rebirth of New Orleans. That show was spot-on in depicting the spirit of resilience and renewal, and it hit home for a lot of us. The music, the food, the sense of community…it’s all in there.
What do New Orleans and Bangkok smell like and taste like?
New Orleans is more of a sound city, but it smells like home to me. It’s a city full of rich aromas. Gumbo simmering on the stove, crawfish bubbling away in backyards. The earthy scent of a plant called sweet olive or Osmanthus. My mother loved that smell and it was always around in my childhood. We even honor it with a drink on the menu at Tina’s. It’s called the Osmanthus Royale, a nod to both her and to the smells of New Orleans.
Bangkok, on the other hand, smells different. Yet it’s just as captivating. It’s herbal, smoky, and vibrant, with the aroma of street food filling the air. There is an ever-present scent of grilled meats, chilies, and lemongrass that I’ve come to love. Both cities are, without a doubt, food cities, places where smell and taste intertwine to create unforgettable culinary experiences.
Worlds apart, what surprising similarities have you found between New Orleans and Bangkok?
It’s amazing how much these two cities actually share. The first is geography. Both New Orleans and Bangkok are river cities, sitting at the mouths of the most important rivers in their respective countries. The Chao Phraya is to Bangkok what the Mississippi is to New Orleans. Everything flows through it. The rivers are the lifeblood of these cities, shaping the culture and the way people live.
Secondly, there’s the obsession with food. Both cities are culinary havens. In New Orleans, food is big and bold, centered around rich flavors, with rice being the staple. You’ll find a similar emphasis in Thailand, where people are just as passionate about their food, and rice too. Everyone has an opinion, and both places thrive on family-style meals where food is at the heart of social interaction.
Lastly, it’s the energy. Both cities are made up of diverse neighborhoods, each with its own vibe, and there’s always something happening. And both Bangkok and New Orleans have this incredible vibrancy that makes you feel like the city itself is alive and pulsing with culture.
How do you feel about American staples like hot dogs that many people assume exemplifies the cuisine? And which one dish, to you, typifies southern cuisine served at Tina’s?
Hot dogs are an American classic, no doubt. In New Orleans, we have our own spin on them called Dat Dogs, loaded with all sorts of crazy toppings. But when it comes to Tina’s, gumbo is the dish that really tells the story of Southern cuisine. It’s a bowl packed with the history of New Orleans.
The origins of gumbo are incredibly diverse: the file comes from the native peoples, the okra comes from Africa (in fact, ‘gumbo’ is an African word for okra), the roux from the French, the smoked andouille sausage from the German influence in New Orleans and many others more. When you dig into a bowl of gumbo, you’re tasting the entire melting pot that is New Orleans.
What are the other assumptions about American cuisine you’ve countered in Bangkok? And what’s some of the best feedback you’ve had?
One of the biggest misconceptions about American cuisine comes from people who have usually never been to the country and that it’s all fast food, burgers, and hotdogs. People forget that the U.S. is a country of immigrants, and its food reflects that. Just like in other cultures, American food evolved out of necessity, with each region developing its own unique flavors and traditions.
As for feedback, the most surprising thing we heard early on was that some of our portion sizes were too big. People wanted to try more of our dishes, so we adjusted the sizes to encourage sharing. It was a small change, but it has led to a much more engaging dining experience.
And how’s the balancing act serving contemporary cuisine to a city mostly unfamiliar with the original?
It’s a bit of a balancing act, but the idea of ‘contemporary’ doesn’t mean we’re deviating from the roots. The flavors we serve are authentic and traditional, we’re just thinking outside the box. For example, our Boudain – a traditional Cajun sausage – is served with creole mustard, but we add a touch of Atchara, a pickled green papaya from the Philippines. This ties back to the Filipino immigrants who were some of the first naturalized U.S. citizens in New Orleans. This isn’t just a twist – it’s part of the rich heritage of Louisiana.
There’s no disconnect between the traditional and the contemporary. The response from diners has been overwhelmingly positive, showing that authentic New Orleans flavors resonate well here in Bangkok.
Tina’s feels truly authentic — but what allowances do you make for the local palate in specific dishes?
None. We don’t make any allowances. The reason is simple: New Orleans cuisine already aligns beautifully with the Thai palate. There’s a natural love for bold, spicy, and savory flavors in both cuisines. And that’s been reflected in the positive feedback we’ve received since opening.
The Sunday live session was sensational. Finally, if Tina’s was a song what would it be? And what’s your favorite song from the Sunday sets?
If Tina’s were a song, it would undoubtedly be something by legendary artists like Aretha Franklin, BB King, or Father John Misty. While these icons may not hail from New Orleans, their music embodies the soul, blues, and funk that are quintessential to the city’s spirit and rich musical heritage.
What makes our Sunday live sessions special is the unique blend of blues, soul, funk, and even a touch of gospel that you don’t often get to hear in Bangkok. It brings a fresh energy to the city, creating a lively atmosphere that perfectly sets the tone for a delicious meal at Tina’s.
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