It’s early morning, and out on the terrace the air is as crisp as the crust on a perfect crème brûlée. This feels like the bow of a magnificent, halcyon-era cruise ship – the 249-room Hotel de la Coupole – MGallery Sapa, as the mist clings persistently to the walls of green mountains ahead. Inside the high-ceilinged hall, a line of can-can dancers (only mannequins) get ready to kick their way through the centre of the room while the chatter over breakfast revolves around today’s visit to Fansipan – Vietnam’s highest peak – or around tuning down the adventurous spirit for a day and diving into the Hotel de la Coupole’s heated pool.
As usual, Chef Oliver Mette has been awake for some time, making his own plans – surveying today’s local ingredients, deciding how, in his inimitable way that combines German precision with gallic flair, to prepare them for guests expecting far more than simply sustenance at this, Sapa’s first five-star hotel (that opened in 2018).
While Saigonese escape the city’s heat by retreating to Dalat, Hanoians have long sought refuge in these northern highlands. Here, in the shadow of Mount Fansipan – Vietnam’s highest peak at 3,143 meters – Hotel de la Coupole has transformed what the French once called the ‘Tonkinese Alps’ into Vietnam’s most ambitious culinary destination.
“The Extraordinary And Inspiring” Hotel de la Coupole
The hotel itself is an intoxicating blend of haute couture and hill tribe aesthetics, where Phileas Fogg might have crossed paths with Mary Poppins. But it’s in the kitchen where the real magic happens, under the watchful eye of Chef Mette, whose serious demeanor and wire-rimmed glasses belie a playful approach to French-Vietnamese fusion.
Chef Oliver joined five years later, a resume almost as long as the cable car up to the famous peak to his name – stints in the Maldives, Davos and Zurich, Jodhpur in India, and many other esteemed hotel kitchens behind him.
“The property is an extraordinary and inspiring place to work,” Mette explains, his German-accented English as precise as his knife work. “Since my first days here in 2023, I’ve been completely captivated by the hotel – it truly feels like home.”
A Symphony Of Local Flavors And French Influences At Hotel de la Coupole’s Chic
At Chic, the hotel’s flagship restaurant, Mette orchestrates a symphony of local flavors with French influences. The space itself is a grand yet intimate setting, where haute couture-inspired décor frames those stunning mountain views. Here, Mette’s signature dishes tell stories of both his European heritage and his love affair with Vietnamese ingredients.
The menu reflects Mette’s philosophy that “food is like art – you can make it simple and enjoyable, but with effort, you can create something truly exceptional.” This attention to detail shows in dishes like his black chicken consommé, enriched with local mustard leaves and mountain herbs, or his interpretation of Sapa trout ceviche, where his classic French technique meets the bright, bold flavors of Vietnamese cuisine.
His approach to menu development is methodical yet creative. “First, I focus on using local, seasonal ingredients and then add my French twist, combining them with aromatic flavors,” he explains.
“It often takes time to perfect the food; we taste and adjust our creations repeatedly until we achieve the quality we desire.” This perfectionism stems from his training under mentors like Thierry Fischer, the President of Escoffier Switzerland, whose guidance has profoundly influenced Mette’s culinary philosophy.
Chef Oliver Mette Transforming Childhood Nostalgia Into Culinary Innovation
Take his interpretation of duck à l’orange, a dish that carries the weight of memory. “I’ve always carried the essence of the cold European seasons in my heart,” he reflects, “especially Christmas time. It’s a season filled with warmth, family, and delicious meals.” His dry-aged version of this classic transforms childhood nostalgia into culinary innovation, perfectly embodying the hotel’s blend of French heritage and contemporary sophistication.
But it’s his work with local ingredients that best showcases Mette’s talent for fusion. “The sturgeon, fresh from a local farm just a short distance away, has become a personal favorite,” he says. “The quality and flavor of this fish are unparalleled.” The same attention to local sourcing extends to his selection of herbs and spices from nearby markets, each carefully chosen to complement his French-inspired creations.
Some Esteemed Guests Drawn To Hotel De La Coupole, Sapa
As a member of Disciples Escoffier since 2019, Mette brings classical French flair to Vietnam’s northern frontier. “French cuisine represents the foundation of all great culinary traditions,” he explains. “Its techniques, precision, and respect for ingredients form the best basis for any chef to grow.”
This philosophy extends throughout the hotel’s dining venues. At Absinthe, mountain views complement locally inspired cocktails and sophisticated tapas, while the cozy fireplace creates an intimate atmosphere perfect for evening digestifs. The venue has evolved into a destination in its own right, hosting prestigious guest shifts from venues like The Haflington, Hanoi, Vietnam’s first bar to crack Asia’s 50 Best Bars top 50.
When asked what dish best represents Hotel de la Coupole, Mette doesn’t hesitate: “Beef Filet ‘Rossini’—a dish that speaks for itself. Top-notch in every way, it’s a perfect balance of rich flavors and luxurious ingredients, with the tender filet crowned by decadent foie gras and finished with a smooth, velvety sauce.”
Elevating Sapa’s Food Scene To Dizzying New Heights
The commitment to local produce allied with French-technique was part of the allure for Oliver’s recent ten-hands dinner that gathered some of Vietnam’s most celebrated chefs – Joonhyuk Chi from Labri, Hanoi, Olivier Corti from Le Comptoir, and Benoit Leloup from Hotel des Arts Saigon MGallery, who were joined by Benjamin Lysik, from Arbor Restaurant, Hong Kong.
The event proved what many already knew: just as Hotel de la Coupole first transformed these highlands into Vietnam’s premier five-star escape, it’s now elevating the country’s culinary scene to equally dizzying heights.
Out on the terrace, where the morning air was once catch-your-breath crisp, the evening mist now wraps around the mountains like a comforting shawl, cloaking what feel like tomorrow’s limitless possibilities for the culinary scene in Sapa, spearheaded by Chef Oliver Mette and Hotel de la Coupole.
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